The Grauspitz is actually a double peak, the Hinter Grauspitz (2574 m) and the Vorder Grauspitz (2599 m). They lie on a 2.5 km long ridge that extends from the Naafkopf (2570 m) up to the Falknis (2564 m). These mountains drop steeply to the Rhine valley.
The Grauspitze (left) and the Schwarzhorn are the highest and second highest summits in the tiny principality of Liechtenstein
Falknis (Falcon's nest) is approximately 1700 meters to the west of Grauspitz. It has an elevation of 2562 m, and has a well marked trail direct to it. It also shows up on a number of general tourist maps.
Getting to the Grauspitz is another story, as there are NO trails leading to it. All approaches from the Swiss side occasionally involve employing three points of contact and some degree of skill negotiating a very steep ridgeline. A local (72 year old male working at the Alplibahn) commented that virtually no one goes to the Grauspitz due to the difficulty of the ridge line leading out to it from Falknis.
One must be careful with scree, talus, mud, and loose holds. There is an exposure factor for persons with hesitation for heights.
As a point of safety note, there is mortar ordnance laying about in the approach from Ijes Dairy Farm. Do not touch anything looking like mortar shells! I am not certain if it was a practice range in the past, or if mortars are used to dislodge avalanches.
Considering the relatively low altitude, this is quite an effort for a one day peak bagging opportunity.
This is the north side, or Liechtenstein side. It looks very dangerous for a solo hiker or climber!
Route volgens Europe's High Points (McKeating & Crolla, 2009).
Note:
The route described essentially takes you away from the mountain before bringing you back in. Do not get confused by hikers plodding onwards to the three popular lakes, Oberst, Mittler and Unterst See, and also those ascending Falknis.
ROUTE:
From the Alplibahn station take the clear track left (NW) through classic 'Heidi country', following signs to Kamm and Falknis. Continue N up the track to the Kamm Pass (2030 m.) Here you will see a small wooden house. From the Kamm pass follow the track down past the Bad Kamm and Fläscher Alp farms to (1780 m). Here the track splits. Take the left fork uphill towards the ljes dairy farm. If the weather is clear you will see the imposing craggy idge of Grauspitz as you pass underneath Glegghorn. You should also have a view of the large red scree cirque ‘Schafalpi”, the summit and fore summit of Grauspitz are on the left of the cirque. On route to ljes pass through the Sunnenspitz ridge by way of a fairly dark 250 m tunnel (a torch is useful here).
At ljes turn due W (left) up the first wide valley. Avoid bearing off to either side and aim for the centre of the ridge at the head of the valley (due W). Where the right hand ridge meets the head of the valley is also fine. The terrain here is tedious, particularly on descent. At the head of the valley (2370 m) you will find yourself on a narrow ridge above a short hanging valley that leads into the red scree of the Schafalp cirque. There is no point trying to traverse around the extremely loose terrain. Descend into the cirque before ascending WNW out to reach a grass-covered pass between the Schwarzhorn (2574 m) and the high point Vorder Grauspitz (2599 m).
Note: The Schwarzhorn has a white steel cross on its summit. Avoid the temptation to go there before ascending Grauspitz, as descent from the summit of Schwarzhorn to the pass is extremely dangerous due to the ludicrously exposed ridge, very loose rock and sheer drops.
Grauspitz (upper left)
Looking west from the Schwarzhorn to the Grauspitz along the razor ridge. Switzerland is on the left, Liechtenstein is on the right. The gnarly north face is very daunting.
Once on the ridge turn left (SW). The E side facing onto the cirque is less exposed than the W side at first. The rock here is extremely loose, and any footmarks you are likely to find will be those of ibex. Stay with the ridge until you reach the fore summit marked by a small cairn tower. The summit of Grauspitz is 60 m to the W and marked by a large sprawling cairn. From here the ridge begins to descends lightly and continues to Falknis, but as far as we can tell it is impassable. Falknis also has a summit cross.
Descent
Descend the way you came up. lf late for the cablecar station, you might be able to hitch-hike a farm vehicle down to Jenins as the descent is long and very tedious. lf resolved to descend on foot, follow the marked trail down from the Alpibahn station - avoid walking down the road to Jenins.
Älplibahn Betriebszeiten (bei guter Witterung): Montag bis Freitag 08:00 - 17:00 Uhr Samstag/Sonntag 07:00 - 18:00 Uhr Reservation unerlässlich: +41 81 322 47 64
Als Abstieg versuchen wir den direkten Weg zur Alpe Ijes, welcher sich als lustiges Gerutsche, Gehüpfe und Gestürze bis um 13.00 Uhr bewältigen lässt.
After some steep, sweaty uphill over grass and then rocks, I reached the crest of the southeast ridge of the Schwarzhorn. Below me was the little hanging valley called the Schafalpi, with cliffs guarding its southern access. From where I was I could either drop down into this valley, cross it over to the Schwarzhorn-Grauspitze col, and then go up the Grauspitze, or else stay on the ridge all the way, traversing the Schwarzhorn. I decided on the second course, since I always prefer ridges and climbing extra summits.
The ridge northwest to the Schwarzhorn was pretty easy - when it got too jagged dropping off to the northeast always provided easier terrain. I saw a guy on the Schwarzhorn-Grauspitze ridge, and thought I'd meet him on the summit, but he must have traversed below it, because once I was atop the Schwarzhorn he had disappeared. I took a nice rest on the Schwarzhorn - the clouds were pretty much gone by now, and it was turning into a really nice day.
The ridge from the Schwarzhorn down to the Schwarzhorn-Grauspitze col was bad news, though. It was very, very steep and jagged, and the rock was very rotten and crumbly - this was perhaps the most difficult solo rock-climbing I had ever done in my life up to this point, and I was a bit scared. At the col things improved greatly, and the ridgeline up to the summit of the Grauspitze offered better rock and far fewer problems. I arrived at the highest point in Liechtenstein (8527 feet) at noon, truly thrilled with the success of my lonely adventure--without a trail or guidebook, I had reconnoitered and executed a difficult ascent.
After taking lots of pictures of myself (to prove I had been here), eating lunch, and a half-hour rest, I descended back to the Schwarzhorn-Grauspitze col, then returned back to the southeast ridge of the Schwarzhorn via the Schafalpi hanging valley, a much easier way than my earlier hairy ridge traverse. The rest of my descent was uneventful - it turned into a very hot, sunny day, I didn't go quite as low on my long, high traverse back to the Kamm col by taking a faint path that slabbed higher, and I even ran up the low grassy peak of the Kamm ridge (6965 feet) at 3:30 PM because I had plenty of time before the last Alpibahn gondola down. I saw several other hikers in this country, including the Swiss couple from this morning, but, except for the one guy I never met, no one above Ijes Alp.
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